Mineral vs. Chemical Sunscreens: How to Choose

These days, it goes without saying: Sunscreen is an essential and important part of everyone’s skincare routine. As the last step, understanding how and when to use SPF is the most important action you can take for long-term skin health. But let’s be real: Not every sunscreen is the same, and there are so many options on the market that it can be hard to discern which one is right for you. That’s why we’re here, starting with the basics. One of the most commonly confused sun protection topics is the difference between mineral (a.k.a. physical) and chemical sunscreen formulas.

Both mineral and chemical sunscreens offer protection from UV rays, but how they actually work is fundamentally different. Depending on your skin type and tone, one may be better suited for you than the other. Ahead, we asked board-certified dermatologists Corey L. Hartman, MD, and Hadley King, MD, to break down everything you need to know about these two filter categories, so you can discover which is best for you. Read on to learn the key differences between mineral vs. chemical sunscreen, including tips on how to choose.

Mineral vs. Chemical Sunscreen: What’s the Difference?

The key difference between mineral and chemical sunscreens is that mineral formulas sit on top of the skin and block rays at the surface using ingredients like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, while chemical sunscreens absorb rays like a sponge using ingredients like oxybenzone, avobenzone, octisalate, octocrylene, homosalate, or octinoxate. Mineral sunscreens tend to be better suited for those with sensitive or acne-prone skin, but the formulations also tend to be thicker (and can potentially leave a white cast behind on deeper skin tones).

Chemical sunscreens are usually lighter, clearer, and more enjoyable to wear. However, the active ingredients in these sunscreens can also be irritating for individuals with sensitive or acne-prone skin. This ultimately means that rather than there being a definitive answer, which to choose will depend a lot on your individual skin needs.

What Is Mineral Sunscreen?

Also commonly and interchangeably referred to as physical sunscreen, “Mineral sunscreens use UV filters that sit on top of the skin, effectively blocking rays from penetrating the skin’s surface,” Hartman tells us. “The most common mineral filters are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends using a mineral sunscreen (instead of a chemical sunscreen) if you have sensitive or acne-prone skin.

Pros

• Safe for Sensitive Skin: The active ingredients in mineral formulas—zinc oxide or titanium dioxide—are typically well-tolerated by sensitive skin types.
• Suited for Acne-Prone Skin: Mineral formulas tend to also be non-comedogenic and non-inflammatory to those with acne-prone skin. And if zinc oxide is the active ingredient, it may even help to improve your acne.
• Potentially More Effective Sun Protection: Because mineral formulas provide a physical barrier preventing the sun’s rays from penetrating your skin, some dermatologists consider them more effective than chemical sunscreens. However, more research is needed to confirm this sentiment.

Cons

• Undesirable Texture: Mineral sunscreens are often associated with a thick, goopy texture that isn’t always enjoyable to wear—especially under makeup.
• Can Leave a White Cast: Physical formulas have been known to leave a white cast on the skin, especially for those with deeper skin tones. However, modern formulas provide options, with many physical formulas containing a slight pink tint to neutralize the white cast. “Physical sunscreens have come a long way from their chalky, white, hard-to-spread predecessors,” says King. “There are now many brands making physical sunscreens that are easy to apply and look great.”

What Is Chemical Sunscreen?

“Chemical SPFs use approved UV filters that transform UV rays when absorbed into the skin into heat,” Hartman explains. “Some of the most common chemical UV filters include oxybenzone, avobenzone, and octinoxate.” Chemical sunscreens tend to be lighter, more sheer (some are completely sheer), and generally more favored by consumers. However, they can also irritate those with sensitive skin and potentially have environmental consequences.

Pros

• Clear: Chemical sunscreens are typically clear formulas that don’t leave a white-cast on the skin.
• Ease of Use and Wear: There have been more innovations in chemical sunscreens than with physical sunscreens. Chemical sunscreens are available in various formats, including gels, sprays, and sticks, each of which is easy to blend and enjoyable to wear, whether applied alone or over makeup. Some chemical sunscreens for the face even offer makeup-adjacent benefits, such as enhancing glow. Our current favorite is e.l.f. Cosmetics’ Suntouchable Invisi-Stick SPF 50.

Cons

• May Be Slightly Less Effective Than Mineral Formulas: Because chemical sunscreens function by absorbing the sun’s rays instead of physically blocking them, some dermatologists consider them to be slightly less effective. However, the most effective sunscreen is the one you will actually wear. When using chemical sunscreens, look for a broad-spectrum formula with SPF 30 or higher to reap the sun protection benefits (and don’t forget to reapply).
• May Have Adverse Environmental Effects: Ingredients commonly found in chemical formulas—such as oxybenzone—are not considered to be “reef-safe” in some states. However, significantly more research is necessary to determine the effects of SPF on the ocean and reefs.
• There are Recalls Associated With Some Chemical Formulas: To be completely clear, chemical filters are considered safe by board-certified dermatologists, and you’re at significantly greater risk of skin cancer if you skip sunscreen. However, it’s worth noting that there have been some recalls associated with chemical sunscreens in the past due to contamination with benzene. The recalled products have been removed from shelves, so Hartman assures that you can safely use chemical sunscreen if that’s your preference.

Is Mineral Sunscreen Better Than Chemical Sunscreen?

Given the potential environmental impact and a few chemical sunscreen recalls here and there, mineral sunscreens are generally more trusted across the board. Still, that being said, both dermatologists we interviewed agree that the “best” sunscreen is the one you will actually wear—and that will vary if you have dark skin, acne-prone skin, sensitive skin, or a personal preference for the feel of a product.

“Regardless of the sunscreen you choose, the most important thing is that you should be wearing sunscreen every day,” Hartman says, noting that he’s particularly fond of physical formulas as a personal choice. “Mineral formulas are not more powerful or more effective than chemical sunscreens, but I’m partial to mineral sunscreens because they are chemical-free, ocean- and environment-friendly, and incapable of causing allergies.”

Acneic or Sensitive Skin: Mineral SPF

King notes that you should consider your skin type when choosing a sunscreen. “Two things can cause sunscreen-related breakouts: occlusion of the pores by comedogenic materials or a sensitivity reaction to chemical UV-blocking ingredients,” she says. For this reason, she recommends physical sunscreens over chemical formulations for acne-prone and sensitive skin types and suggests looking for oil-free or non-comedogenic on the label.

Deep Skin Tones: Chemical SPF

For those with darker skin types, King notes that finding a physical sunscreen that doesn’t make skin appear pasty can be challenging. “Chemical sunscreens will be easier in this regard, but there are physical sunscreens, particularly tinted ones, that shouldn’t have this issue either,” she notes. Hartman echoes this sentiment, noting that while there are certainly physical/mineral options that blend into deep skin tones, using a chemical formula might be easier (and more cost-effective).

“Traditionally, mineral sunscreens have not been as elegant as chemical sunscreens, especially for Black and Brown people,” Hartman says. “Breakthrough products that provide physical SPF protection for darker skin types without leaving a white or iridescent cast are innovations, indeed.”

For the Environmentally Conscious: Mineral SPF

Given the reef-safe conversation, mineral sunscreens may be your best option if the environment is your priority, you’re spending time in natural bodies of water, or you’re traveling somewhere that has bans or discourages specific chemical filters (such as Hawaii, Mexico, or Australia). While most mineral sunscreens are reef-safe, that doesn’t mean all are: Look for formulas that only include zinc oxide and/or titanium oxide as active ingredients.

For Seamless Makeup Application: Chemical SPF

While mineral sunscreens have come a long way, if you find that these formulas tend to pill on you, we get it. In this case, a chemical formula is often a shortcut to smoother application, both over your other skincare products and under makeup. But even if you do prefer a mineral formula, you have options: Proper skin prep, paying attention to the formula, and more can help you achieve a pilling-free finish.

What About Hybrid Sunscreens?

If you’d prefer something that offers the best of both worlds, you’ll be thrilled to know that hybrid sunscreens are on the rise. These combine filters from the two categories for a product that can balance the broad-spectrum protection of a mineral formula with the cosmetic benefits (i.e. reduced white cast and/or pilling) of a chemical one. It’s ultimately up to you to test and decide, but this can be a promising solution if you haven’t found an option on one side or the other that fully fits your needs.

The Final Takeaway

Ultimately, both dermatologists agree that the best sunscreen is the one you will actually wear. So, while mineral sunscreens may be more trusted across the board, it’s only “better” if you’ll actually wear it. Stick to mineral sunscreens if you have acne-prone or sensitive skin. Otherwise, chemical sunscreens are a safe, effective option that can be more effortless to wear throughout the day. At the end of the day, pay less attention to the mineral vs. chemical debate, and instead focus on finding a sunscreen you love that’s broad-spectrum: “This means that it protects against both UVA rays, which age the skin, and UVB rays, which burn the skin,” Hartman says. “Both UVA and UVB rays are dangerous and can lead to accelerated skin aging and skin cancer. Choose a minimum SPF 30, and you can even go a bit higher for your face, neck, and décolletage.”