

Since Martha Washington captivated attention on George Washington’s Inauguration Day, the sartorial choices of First Ladies have been scrutinized, interpreted, and symbolically conveyed. From the inception of the nation’s presidential history, the styles donned by these influential women not only expressed their personal aesthetics but also reflected their political views, public images, and the historical contexts in which they served with their spouses.
For example, in 1860, Mary Todd Lincoln, the wife of Abraham Lincoln, frequently made fashion statements reflective of her era. Throughout her husband’s presidency, she often wore dresses created by Elizabeth Keckley, a former enslaved woman who became a renowned seamstress. Upon their first encounter on the day of Lincoln’s inauguration, a shared vision regarding fashion blossomed between them, which persisted throughout his term. Mary Todd Lincoln’s steadfast choice to wear Keckley’s designs subtly advocated for the abolition of slavery—a moral stance she and her husband collectively supported—ultimately reinforcing the Union’s resolve amid the Civil War.
Helen Taft also made significant contributions to the history of First Lady fashion. In 1909, following her husband’s inaugural ball, she donated her gown to the Smithsonian National Museum, marking the first instance of an official donation of a First Lady’s inaugural dress. This action initiated the museum’s tradition of collecting gowns from each First Lady, with every piece narrating unique stories about evolving cultural standards and personal expression.
In more contemporary times, Dr. Jill Biden’s fashion selections have garnered attention for their profound symbolic representation of unity. At her husband’s inauguration, Dr. Biden donned a cashmere coat adorned with federal flowers, symbolizing all 50 states and U.S. territories. This beautifully crafted piece not only showcased exquisite design but also represented national unity and a commitment to inclusiveness in a politically divisive climate. Claudia Taylor Johnson, wife of Lyndon B. Johnson, made a historical mark by being the first First Lady to hold the Bible during her husband’s presidential oath in 1965. Her choice of a red wool coat and hat was a testament to patriotism and boldness. Michelle Obama’s decision to wear a white Jason Wu gown for the 2009 inaugural ball sparked discussions around supporting emerging American designers, while her choice of sage green J. Crew gloves during the inauguration ceremony reflected her and her husband’s relatability to the American populace.
In the latest inauguration, Jill Biden made another impactful statement with her selection of a bipartisan purple ensemble designed by Ralph Lauren. This blend of blue and red further emphasizes her desire to unite a nation that appears more polarized than ever, signaling her commitment to fostering collaboration amidst political tensions.
Lastly, Melania Trump’s fashion evolution as First Lady stands out distinctly. Her powder blue cashmere dress worn during her husband’s 2017 inauguration paid homage to Jackie Kennedy’s iconic style from 1960. However, over time, Melania’s wardrobe appeared to adopt a more structured, military-inspired aesthetic characterized by strong shoulders and sharp lines, projecting a formal persona.
Each of these women’s fashion choices provides a meaningful glimpse into their individual identities, showcasing the cultural contexts of their respective eras. From color selections to designer affiliations, these First Ladies have employed fashion as a means to transcend mere self-expression.