In Defense of a Physical Scrub

As a longtime acne sufferer, I take pretty good care of my skin. Even after two rounds of Accutane things can easily go south if I’m not on top of it. Still, I have my dirty little secrets. I’m not super consistent with my sunscreen application (though I am improving!), and I couldn’t tell you the last time I washed my BeautyBlender.

But last year, I experienced true skincare shame for the first time. After years of clear skin, my hormonal acne once again reared its ugly head, and I felt hopeless. I tried every acne product in my arsenal before finally turning to a gritty, physical scrub. Something about trying to manually scrub away the clogged pores felt so right—and yet so wrong?

While I loved physcial exfoliation in high school, for years now it’s been instilled in me that these kinds of products do more harm than good, and I just couldn’t shake the category’s bad reputation—I think any beauty lover of a certain age remembers exactly where they were when we found out a certain beloved apricot scrub was causing “microtears” in the skin. Instead, I—and everyone else I know—turned to chemical exfoliation, trading my drug store scrubs for salicylic, glycolic, and mandelic acid.

And yet, when I eventually reintroduced some physical exfoliation back into my routine, my skin looked clear and glowy. It was incredible, but I felt ashamed for using something so aggressive. So I couldn’t help but wonder….If a scrub was so bad, why did my skin look (and feel) so good?

Luckily, my fears were soon assuaged by one of my favorite estheticians, acne-whisperer Sofie Pavitt. At a recent facial appointment, she actually recommended she recommended I use a scrub once a week—I felt so vindicated. I starting incorporating a scrub precisely once per week (not just when I felt like it) and reaped the rewards—fewer closed comedones, a visible glow, and baby soft skin. So why did I ever feel so bad about it? Ahead, I unpack the stigma, the benefits, and how to properly use a gritty scrub in your routine.

The Benefits of a Physical Scrub

“Physical scrubs get a bad rap but actually can be extremely beneficial for some skin types,” explains Pavitt.
“If you’re dealing with dull, dry skin, or texture such as pebbly skin (closed comedones), using a physical scrub 2-3 times a week can help remove some of this dead cell buildup.” Pebbly, clogged pores is something I’ve been dealing with personally, and is exactly why the esthetician recommended I add a scrub to my routine.

Dermatologist Dr. Jenna Queller echoes Pavitt’s sentiment. “Physical scrubs are best for people with normal to oily, non-reactive skin who want immediate smoothness and removal of dead skin cells.” She also loves them for the body as well. “They work well for textural concerns, such as rough patches on the arms, legs, or face, and for boosting circulation.”Physical scrubs provide instant exfoliation, giving your skin a smooth, polished feel immediately. They can stimulate circulation in the area, which acids don’t do. Additionally, they can help slough off stubborn surface buildup, like rough patches on elbows, knees, or lips, which sometimes chemical exfoliants may take longer to smooth.”

The Right Way to Use a Face Scrub

However, that doesn’t mean everyone should suddenly ditch their enzyme cleansers for an ultra-grainy scrub. “People with sensitive, rosacea-prone, or very acne-prone skin should generally avoid harsh physical scrubs, as friction can trigger irritation, inflammation, or microtears,” explains Queller. Pavitt adds that if you have red, inflamed acne, you should opt for chemical exfoliation instead.

But if you’re in the clogged pores or dull, dry camp, the esthetician suggests using a scrub 2-3 times a week during the cleansing step of your routine. “Using a physical scrub alongside a chemical exfoliator is key—think of it as a ‘booster’ to your low and slow chemical exfoliator,” she says. Just be sure to use them on different days—Queller says to skip acids on the days you opt for a scrub to prevent over-exfoliation. She instructs to “be gentle” with your application: “Use light pressure, circular motions, and rinse thoroughly.”

How to Choose a Safe SCrub

While the category has benefits, that doesn’t mean all scrubs are created equal. “Avoid jagged, hard, or irregular particles (like crushed shells or apricot pits), which can micro-tear the skin,” suggests Queller. “Look for smooth, round beads (like jojoba beads) or enzyme-based grains.” She also adds to look out for alcohol-heavy or overly fragranced scrubs if your skin is sensitive, and if you have active acne to stick to enzyme-based or very gentle physical exfoliants.

Pavitt also recommends steering clear of apricot kernels in favor of formulas with magnesium fakes or pumice. “Magnesium flakes are very fine and sand-like, and can dissolve/emulsify when water is added so they’re easy to rinse off,” she adds.

Pavitt hints that she may be cooking something up, but she also loves ZO’s Skin Health’s Exfoliating Polish and Dr. Loretta’s Resurfacing Enzyme Polish. Queller is a fan of the SkinCeuticals Micro-Exfoliating Scrub since it uses gentle physical exfoliation with chemical exfoliants. She also likes the Revision Skincare Triple Action Exfoliator for “effective yet controlled skin renewal.” Personally, I love the Kate Somerville ExfoliKate Intensive Exfoliating Treatment, which combines physical exfoliation with botanical enzymes and always leaves me with a nice glow. I always like to use this one after a long flight to really make my skin feel clean and awake.

Ready to give scrubs another shot? Shop some of the best, below.