Exploring the Unconventional: Lev Tanju Discusses His Role as Creative Director for Fila+

Lev Tanju has a passion for shopping but is making an effort to curb his impulse. His recent acquisitions include a S/S 2015 Chanel satchel embellished with badges and peace symbols from a consignment shop in LA (he considers it ‘better than a painting’), a vintage Chrome Hearts belt (his current fascination), unique apparel for golfing (‘odd vintage knits and Gore-Tex’), and Charvet slippers sourced from Paris. The designer, who hails from Croydon, acknowledges he needs to ‘minimize’ and conduct a wardrobe purge. ‘I have around 200 T-shirts but I only wear three on a daily basis. I buy items for their beauty and find myself not using them, yet I still appreciate their presence.’

Lev Tanju on his position as creative director for Fila+

Tanju’s unwavering enthusiasm for fashion has been a key factor in the triumph of Palace, the skatewear brand he co-founded in 2009 with Gareth Skewis. The duo, who were acquainted from skating at London’s South Bank, briefly collaborated at Slam City Skates in Covent Garden. Palace was born from a desire to challenge the US dominance in skatewear brands like Supreme. The label’s name was inspired by the dilapidated flat affectionately dubbed the ‘Palace’, where Tanju lived with fellow skaters near Waterloo station. Initially, Palace launched with T-shirts that humorously referenced Chanel and Versace, before evolving to include tracksuits, a hallmark of the brand, and subsequently a complete wardrobe distinguished by its ‘Tri-Ferg’ triangle logo, crafted by the renowned illustrator Fergus Purcell.

‘I didn’t anticipate immediate sales for the clothes,’ Tanju recalls. ‘I was simply creating attractive T-shirts. Then I moved on to tracksuits because of my passion for them. We unexpectedly fell into a groove and began collaborating with various brands.’ This led to a flurry of partnerships with Adidas, Ralph Lauren, Crocs, Gucci, and even Wedgwood. Palace garnered a reputation for its eclectic and unpredictable style, mirroring Tanju’s personal aesthetic. ‘I’m always in search of something unusual.’

The latest chapter in Tanju’s career sees him stepping into the role of creative director for Fila+, a new branch of the renowned Italian sportswear label that debuted in 2024. His journey began with a telephone call from a friend that was compelling enough for him to travel to Biella, the Italian town housing Fila. ‘Visiting the archive and meeting individuals who had been dedicated to the brand for two decades felt like joining a family.’ Shortly after his visit, guided by his instincts, he signed the contract. Tanju introduced his first collection in June through a series of visually stunning images captured by Ryan McGinley, another veteran skateboarder, in Tuscany. That same month, he showcased a second collection in an industrial setting in Milan, featuring a diverse cast playing out scenes reminiscent of 1970s-style tableaus. These two collections conveyed Tanju’s vision for Fila+: an eclectic wardrobe inspired by the brand’s athletic heritage yet distinctly shaped by his own creativity. ‘I perceive it as a celebration of 110 years of the brand, interpreted through my personal style,’ he details, describing a familiar process honed over his 15 years at Palace. ‘I can discover treasures in the archive that may seem dated to others, but to me, their uniqueness stands out. My love for varied aesthetics drives me, and I embrace the daring of blending them together.’

Initially, when Tanju first considered Fila+, he aimed to keep his designs ‘clean and straightforward, ensuring simplicity’. However, it didn’t take long for his true creativity to surface. ‘Gradually, my authentic self emerged,’ he shares. ‘It’s like an exquisite disorder: I’ve always prioritized my personal style over commercial expectations. I’m unapologetic in my desire to create products for myself.’ Therefore, his offerings include velour tracksuits, cable-knit jumpers, durable acetate trousers inspired by workwear, and V-neck sweaters that echo classic football kits, together with puffer jackets interspersed with red, white, and blue panels, representing Fila’s iconic colors. The silhouettes lean more towards a 1970s aesthetic compared to Palace’s looser fits (‘with a looser bottom and a snugger top’), and two fresh iterations of Fila’s well-known F-Box logo are integrated throughout. One version is transformed into a red heart and graces caps and ties, while another takes shape in the colors of the Italian flag. ‘I didn’t want to alter the logo excessively because to me it stands as one of the finest logos globally.’

Tanju’s initial Fila purchase was a pair of Grant Hill basketball sneakers, and some of his favorite childhood memories include watching West Ham and ACF Fiorentina play while dressed in Fila kits (in Turkey, where his family originates, his father was a professional football player). Within his Fila+ collections, nostalgia for vintage athletic gear plays a significant part: inspirations for the first two lines include the iconic Fila uniforms worn by tennis pro Björn Borg and a climbing wardrobe crafted for Reinhold Messner, the first to conquer Mount Everest solo without supplemental oxygen in 1980 (‘the Messner mountain gear is incredible’). Tanju is also captivated by the dynamic and iconic persona of Pierluigi Rolando, Fila’s first creative director. In the 1970s, Rolando transformed a company previously recognized for its underwear into a worldwide sportswear giant with the ‘White Line’ tennis collection. ‘He pioneered modern sportswear. It’s incredibly inspirational.’

According to Tanju, he visits Milan or Biella roughly once a month (along with numerous Zoom meetings). He aspires for his Fila+ lines to embody the quirky charm and intrinsic elegance attached to Italian fashion, which he admires. ‘Italians possess a raw sense of style: they excel in running fashion houses and creating culinary delights; they embody passion, and I adore their dress sense,’ he asserts. ‘To me, an Italian man on a scooter in a puffer jacket exudes more coolness than a man in a similar jacket in New York.’ When in Italy, he relishes ‘pasta, pizza,’ and naturally, shopping. He finds joy in strolling Via Monte Napoleone, the luxurious shopping avenue adorned with the flagship stores of prominent Italian houses like Prada, Versace, and Gucci. ‘When I lack inspiration, I appreciate wandering into those places, soaking up the ambiance – the colors, the textiles. Then I relax with a coffee and observe everyone’s outfits.’

However, despite 15 fruitful years with Palace and his consistent recognition as a significant figure in fashion, Tanju insists he does not identify with that world. On Via Monte Napoleone, he perceives himself as an observer from a distance. ‘I don’t view myself as a fashion designer. My emphasis is on creating garments – fashion is an entirely different domain. A true fashion designer reshapes how people perceive clothing. I’m more concerned with functionality paired with a cool vibe.’ What he believes he excels at is ‘cultivating an atmosphere, a vision, and a mood. I enjoy presenting the fantasy. I feel that’s why I was a fitting choice for Fila. While perhaps someone else could have crafted a more refined collection, they might not manage the marketing as well. You have to consider both aspects. I believe I represent the brand well. My passion for it is genuine.’