David Koma refined his vocabulary of contrasts into a study of “fragility and structure” for fall 2026.
“By refusing color this season, I had the chance to pay more attention to the texture and every little gesture,” he said, adding that his starting point was his daily walk through Hyde Park, where swans cut a calm line against the London skyline.
The fall range’s almost-monochrome palette — pure white, milky tones, taupe and ecru — gave the clothes an architectural clarity. Sensuality was controlled: lingerie-like sheerness, sliced silk satin gowns with sharp cuts across the torso, and corsetry that framed the body.
“I kind of imagined her elegant and timeless with austerity and quiet power. This is how a modern femme fatale looks in my eyes for this winter,” Koma said during a preview.
Feathers, a Koma signature, became structural devices. Rooster plumes mixed with pexi and crystals formed elongated, sculptural collars and corset tops, creating what he called a “showgirl effect.”
Tailoring, meanwhile, was about bringing “a severe, brutalist touch” to softer materials. He offered elongated tuxedo jackets with satin lapels, a super-long sequin bouclé coat balancing matte and shine, and sharp trousers with chains at the front.
Patent leather floral embroidery, Chantilly lace peeking from under jackets, and shearling bombers rounded out what Koma described as the new degree of power dressing: elegant, untouchable, and unmistakably Koma.
