Positioned atop one of the countless air-conditioning units protruding from a particular apartment building in Hong Kong — part of the myriad installations scattered throughout the city — was a patch of Astroturf. Was this a playful statement? Or did it signify an authentic effort to introduce some greenery in one of the world’s most densely populated urban areas?
A few levels below the patch of Astroturf, I spotted a discarded pair of knickers. There was no indication of which of the numerous makeshift drying systems it had slipped from. The creativity of Hong Kong locals with wire coat hangers is truly impressive! The late German photographer Michael Wolf, who spent two decades in Hong Kong, even compiled a book titled Lost Laundry. The city is certainly not short of such items.
I’m visiting for a short sightseeing trip and — as a dedicated fashion journalist — indulging in some shopping. However, lost laundry is not what I’m after. Nor am I interested in purchasing luxury brands available at the malls frequented by the 26.8 million annual visitors from mainland China. Instead, I’m longing for true destination shopping, the unique finds that only Hong Kong can offer.
I can’t deny that this quest is more challenging than it used to be. A fashion friend, who has lived in the city intermittently for years, confides that she no longer shops for fashion here, primarily due to the overwhelming presence of generic international brands. Nonetheless, Hong Kong remains an exceptionally unique place, shaped by its history as a former British colony, its identity as a Special Administrative Region of China, and its breathtaking geography, with the bustling city center set against the vibrant blue waters of the South China Sea.
Take the classic tram ride up to Victoria Peak, the 552-meter elevation that offers breathtaking views, often inducing shivers of awe that the locals refer to as chi. It’s invigorating and entertaining, with some of the best Chinese cuisine around (a somewhat contentious claim, yet one shared by many of my Asian friends), lively night markets, and a vibrant nightlife scene. The city’s allure is immediately apparent, and the prevalence of English speakers makes it easy to navigate.
Despite the somber political situation as the Chinese government tightens its hold, the locals I’ve conversed with express their eagerness for tourists to come and appreciate the pride they have in their city. “We’re hoping you’ll share some positive stories about Hong Kong for a change,” one local tells me.
Returning to fashion, a fellow fashionista who regularly visits swears by Fa Yuen Street Market in Mong Kok for chic little knitted wrist bags priced at about £1.50 each. It seems locals particularly adore the designs adorned with cats, which I quickly discover are far ubiquitous. There’s no shortage of Hongkongers’ affection for all things cute. Many taxis feature dashboards overflowing with trinkets (such as lucky waving cats), making them resemble miniature theme parks.
Taking my friend’s suggestion, I head to the market. Situated in the bustling heart of Kowloon, it may lack the picturesque charm of Hong Kong Island but offers a more authentic experience, perfect for people-watching. I leave with several bags for holiday gifts, featuring floral patterns, geometric designs, and — okay, I admit — some with Miffy characters.
Beyond the boutiques, Hong Kong boasts lively street markets
SHUTTERSTOCK
However, I’m discovering that Hong Kong shopping offers much more than simply Cartier on one end and cat-patterned purses on the other. The neighborhood of Sheung Wan, located on Hong Kong Island, stands out as a prime area. Situated just west of Central, which was the first district the British developed in the 1840s, it reflects the essence of modern urban life.
Tai Ping Shan Street and its surrounding roadways are hubs of charm, filled with coffee shops (yuzu cappuccino, anyone?), boutiques, and photography galleries. The vibe is relaxed yet lively, and the architectural variety — blending Victorian styles with mid-century modern and contemporary designs — characterizes the older sections of the city.
One standout is Meilan, a jewelry store that refreshes the traditional Chinese appreciation for jade. They offer striking green leaf pendants carved with precision and hung on classic silk threads, as well as serene lavender jade “doughnuts,” symbolizing peace and safety (meilanjewels.com). Though not inexpensive — the more vivid the jade, the higher the price — just window-shopping provides a glimpse into an aesthetic world filled with rich traditions.
Another essential stop in Sheung Wan is Laqlaise Pottery, located on Po Hing Fong. Here, Emma Chan creates exquisite Chinese-style teapots from either pristine white porcelain or colorful Japanese shigaraki clay, usually around £70. Additionally, the Blue Lotus Gallery aims to “explore Hong Kong’s identity and culture through photography” (bluelotus-gallery.com), featuring work capturing the city’s uniquely vibrant façades.
A current exhibition at M+ showcases the artistry of Chinese designer Guo Pei
DAN LEUNG/COURTESY OF M+, HONG KONG
Nearby on Hollywood Road, where ancient banyan trees drape their roots over the stone walls (a reminder of the city’s jungle past), the focus shifts to antiques. Unless you’re visiting the Man Mo Temple, where locals bring their knee pads to kneel and draw guo bei— “fortune sticks”—seeking divine guidance. The antique shops in the vicinity offer impressive jade carvings and other quirky collectibles, such as whimsical sculptures of 1930s Chinese female ballet soldiers and beautifully carved giant stones on wooden bases.
My appreciation of Hong Kong’s culture deepens through a quote by Chinese-American architect I.M. Pei at M+, the city’s remarkable contemporary art museum that opened in 2021 at the West Kowloon Cultural District (free entry; mplus.org.hk). Notably, it features a design shop with an excellent selection of local jewelry. Pei speaks fondly of the “stone farmers,” who seek out unique stones, often sculpting them and allowing them to settle in rivers or lakes for years to enhance their beauty. This showcases Hong Kong’s distinct aesthetic universe.
Pei is also the mastermind behind the striking Bank of China Tower on Hong Kong Island. It provides a spectacular view from the Upper House, one of the city’s most luxurious hotels located in Admiralty’s Pacific Place. During breakfast on the 49th floor, I can’t help but notice one woman enjoying her toast in a bustier while another sports a chic pillbox hat — surpassing even Le Bristol’s stylish clientele during Paris Couture Week.
Rihanna in Guo Pei at the Met Gala in 2015
GETTY IMAGES
Currently, M+ is hosting an exhibition featuring the works of another Pei, the renowned Chinese designer, Guo Pei (running until April 6). Her most famous piece in the West is the striking yolk-yellow gown worn by Rihanna at the Met Gala in 2015, often referred to as the “omelette dress.” Guo Pei’s designs encapsulate a unique Chinese fashion language, one that is extravagantly intricate and, quite frankly, breathtaking. Her theatrical creations, like the “gold boat dress,” with its grand skirt adorned with gilded flowers, are comparable in size to one of Hong Kong’s tiny “coffin homes,” which measure no more than 15 square meters.
These designs raise intriguing questions that I frequently hear — whispered, discreetly, off the record — from those within Western luxury brands. Presently, these are the labels that the affluent Chinese, as well as the general population, prefer. They purchase these brands both in Hong Kong and in their home cities on the mainland. The economic downturn in China is causing challenges for many European and American luxury brands. Will more shoppers eventually turn to these locally inspired luxury offerings? If they do, it could spell trouble for established names like LVMH and its CEO, Bernard Arnault.
My final stop in Hong Kong for shopping is PMQ, a pair of 1950s buildings that once served as Police Married Quarters (pmq.org.hk). A diverse array of boutiques now occupies the suites within. One must-visit is Qipology, which celebrates the qipao, the elegant high-collared dress that was once the customary outfit in China (qipology.com). In Wong Kar-Wai’s film In the Mood for Love, set in 1960s Hong Kong, Maggie Cheung’s stunning qipaos had Tony Leung considering leaving his wife for her.
Qipology showcases a passion for the traditional Chinese dress
Another notable boutique in this area is Femina, a jewelry studio where Japanese designer Chieko Urabe creates amazing pieces featuring pearls and semi-precious stones priced significantly lower than in the UK (I purchased a ring with three sizable pearls for around £100; instagram.com/femina_jewellery).
Now, it’s time for a refreshing break with scoops of sorbet — lime and wasabi alongside mango and chili — at the nostalgic Italian ice cream parlor, Snack Baby, located on Hollywood Road (an absolute delight!). Alternatively, I could indulge in an apricot cocktail (a dangerously delicious mix of bourbon and apricot liqueur) at the trendy one-Michelin-star brasserie, Louise, situated at PMQ. Or I might opt for some hole-in-the-wall noodle dishes found at nearly every street corner imaginable. But let’s not delve into the culinary scene here — that’s a topic for another article…
Anna Murphy was a guest of The Upper House, which offers room-only doubles starting from £527 (thehousecollective.com). Fly to Hong Kong
Have you experienced shopping in Hong Kong? Share your thoughts in the comments below.
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