Anyone with an interest in skincare (or who’s spent too much time scrolling TikTok) knows that collagen is crucial in maintaining the appearance of youthful skin. They also probably know that collagen production slows down with age, which means finding collagen-boosting skincare is a top priority.
But does topical collagen actually promote plumper, firmer skin? We spoke with board-certified dermatologist Dr. Jenna Queller to find out.
What does collagen do?
The most abundant protein in the body, collagen is responsible for keeping skin bouncy, radiant, and “looking youthful and resilient,” according to Dr. Queller.
As we age, collagen production in the body naturally declines, which leaves people looking for ways to replenish this vital anti-aging protein. There are plenty of products that claim to boost collagen production, including topical collagen serums, creams, and oils.
However, Dr. Queller advises the solution is not topical collagen.
How do I stimulate collagen production in the skin?
While lots of skincare touts collagen as a hero ingredient, “Topical collagen itself is not effective for rebuilding collagen,” says Dr. Queller. “Because of its large molecular size, it does not penetrate down to the dermis, where collagen is actually produced.”
That means the collagen cream or mask you’re using isn’t working to reverse or treat signs of aging. “At best, it acts as a surface-level moisturizer and can temporarily make skin feel smoother—but it’s not stimulating new collagen,” Dr. Queller explains.
