Kim says it’s the brand’s True Comfort Complex (a blend of sodium hyaluronate, ginger root, and algae extract) that keeps skin hydrated and stops the formula from settling into fine lines. But she still likes a little skin prep, especially on dry skin like her own. “If it has a matte finish, inherently, it’s better for a little bit more of a combo/oily skin,” she says. Those with normal or dry skin might want to add a moisturizer first (and sunscreen during the day, of course).
I asked cosmetic chemist and product developer Ramón Pagán to review the ingredient list and explain a little more about what makes the formula self-priming and setting. “Contrary to most foundations, this one has dimethicone as its first ingredient,” he says. “Dimethicone itself denotes a wide range of ingredients that can be used, but this is generally the main ingredient we see in blurring primers, since it helps to smooth the canvas and diffuse light to help blur.” In other words, the formula starts more like a smoothing primer than a traditional foundation, which is often water-based. “I think it could really get the job done in creating a smooth, even base on application,” he adds.
When it comes to the setting claims, Pagán points to isododecane, a hydrocarbon, which is “a volatile ingredient that evaporates off the skin quickly, creating a sense of ‘setting,’” he says. This could be fine for dry skin, but he recommends setting with powder if “you want true longwear or have oily skin.”
The silicones in the formula also keep the True to Myself Foundation from settling into fine lines and wrinkles, Pagán says. He describes silicones as a “useful, unique ingredient category” that help diffuse light and create a smooth canvas, while remaining “super lightweight and versatile.”
Longwear foundations rely on a mix of components, according to Pagán: a base that suspends pigment, volatile ingredients that help the formula set, and film-forming agents that deliver long wear as well as transfer-, sweat-, and water-resistant claims. Silicones play a major role in that balance, allowing formulas to be both sweat- and sebum-resistant while still looking and feeling flexible.
Of course, the foundation’s skin-care ingredients help with the feel and finish, too. “Sodium hyaluronate is an iconic humectant that helps to hydrate the skin; makeup always looks best on hydrated skin,” Pagán says. “Ginger root and algae extract, depending on what version and where they’re sourced from, can have antioxidant, soothing, or skin-regenerating properties, helping to give your skin a more plump appearance.”
One important thing Rare Beauty made sure to improve with the True to Myself foundation is the undertone options throughout the shade range. “We listened to our community, and there were some undertones that we definitely had to work on,” Kim says. “So we really worked on having cool, warm, and neutral tones, and six different families.” Forty-eight shades fall into light, light-medium, medium, medium-deep, and deep categories.
Kim and her team brought in models to test all the shades and returned to the drawing board if the tone wasn’t right. They’re confident everyone will find their perfect shade and are launching an online tool to help. Kim still recommends getting matched in-store if possible and notes it’s often about personal preference. Gomez admits she wears a few shades depending on whether she’s “really pale with a red lip” or has “long hair and a tan.”
