Where Fashion Foundations Converge with Mohican Flair and Subtle Luxury Skincare

The Spring 2025 haute couture presentation by Dior delved into the essence of fashion and beauty. Artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri centered her collection around the fundamental elements—essentially, the very framework of her artistry and the iconic symbols of her brand.

The framework of a gown, adorned with exquisite embroidery of dragonflies, butterflies, and snails crafted from straw, raffia, and lace—where the lack of substantial fabric highlighted the intricate artistry of the atelier—was ingeniously layered over a crinoline structure made from bamboo.

The Cigale—a silhouette originally designed by Monsieur Dior for his autumn-winter 1952-1953 haute couture collection, characterized by its rigid moiré with exaggerated hips and a cinched waist—was reinterpreted as a tailored tailcoat in antique silver or ecru, elegantly worn open over iridescent tulle bloomers.

In a similar vein, the show’s installation, envisioned by Mumbai-born artist Rithika Merchant and transformed into large textile panels by Karishma Swali along with the artisans of Chanakya School of Craft, presented free-flowing visual narratives of feminine stories, handed down through lines of matriarchs.

As noted in the show description, the shifting forms embodied an Alice in Wonderland essence—simultaneously youthful and liberated from the confines of time.

The modest Trapèze silhouette introduced to the house in 1958 by a young Yves Saint Laurent evolved into transformed crinolines, bloomers, and puffball skirts influenced by the 80s, crafted from twisted taffeta, while Stephen Jones’ couture Mohican headpieces reflected a punk aesthetic—yet remained extraordinarily refined with their lavish display of feathers, butterflies, and flowers.

The clothing silhouettes drew inspiration from the house’s sartorial heritage, while the subtle “boyfriend blush” (Dior Rouge Blush Color & Glow) and feathery brows of the “elfin wood creatures” (Diorshow Brow Styler and Diorshow On Set Brow) were evolutions stemming from past makeup styles—specifically, Spring 2025’s “workout blush” and Cruise 2025.

Backstage before the show, Dior Makeup Creative and Image Director Peter Philips conveyed that his makeup—“inspired by fairy tales, ethereal, supremely elegant and delicate with an edgy touch through a spiked brow reflecting the mohawk’s sharpness”—aimed to highlight natural skin beauty using the new Dior Capture Totale Le Sérum and Dior Forever Skin Perfect stick, which debuted on the runway last season for “a soft dewy finish.” It exemplified quiet luxury for the complexion.

He elaborated that “a complete makeup look would lean more towards prêt-à-porter.” Especially given the vibrant nature of the show’s art concept, it was essential to “maintain a calmness so it doesn’t appear as if it’s an episode of ‘Absolutely Fabulous,’” he humorously remarked.

No “tomato or strawberry girls” here. Regarding trends, Philips gravitates towards “caring ingredients” over those with merely cosmetic attributes.

In the same vein, couture transcends trends; it embodies artistry, heritage, and universality.