For the first 10 years, Situationist was all about statement looks.
But for his first on-schedule runway show, designer Irakli Rusadze filled in the blanks of what the next decade could hold for the Georgian label by building out a more commercial direction.
A cusp-of-the-‘90s feeling emerged from silhouettes that were all about framing the shoulder line.
Collars were sculptural across jackets and coats, wrapping around the shoulders like a sail or gently espousing the curve of the neck in a more believable option. Lapels of some blazers grew into a cascading fold, but on the back, the sleeves were fully formed and functional.
As always, the designer’s sure hand at tailoring was put to good use with well-proportioned bottoms, whether tailored trousers or sharp straight midi skirts, in plentiful sharp silhouettes. A sleek jumpsuit in heather gray had all the seaming precisely executed in trompe-l’œil.Â
Knitwear and bags, a developing category that skewed toward the extra-capacious, were also given airtime.
The effect would have ultimately been more impactful with a sharper edit. But you can’t fault Rusadze and team for wanting to pull out all their creative stops — and chops — for this high-profile milestone.
