Picture Stefano Gallici as a teenager in his Italian hometown of Teor, a book of poet Arthur Rimbaud in one hand, ‘70s rock music booming all around, and a sense of rebellion boiling inside him and his clique. Fast forward and all these elements are informing his vision for the Ann Demeulemeester brand.
Gallici’s latest effort signaled another step in that direction. It was youthful and drenched in that melting pot of music and literature references that he’s keen to bring to the label – sometimes too much, over-complicating with storytelling designs that otherwise are looking sharper each season.
For fall 2026, Gallici built on where he left off for spring with a mix of Victorian-era influences and the house’s signature tailoring, peppered with the regimental accents and Napoleon jackets that he was among the first to relaunch and that have since gained steam elsewhere.
Only this time the sporty hints in the spring Ann Demeulemeester lineup gave room for Gallici’s refreshing take on preppy. It came with the same undone, rock ‘n’ roll attitude with ripped school uniforms with raw hems and linings peaking out; crushed velvet blazers emblazoned with crests and paired with denim with ripped gold side bands or pants turned into sketchbooks with prints of personal notes; distressed V-neck mohair sweaters and dresses layered over lace separates, and varsity and leather jackets with a lived-in patina.
They joined others that still had a regimental influence, from capes and coats to cropped Napoleon jackets, as well as new iterations of Gallici’s go-to biker jackets and an eye-catching zippered blouson mixing shearling and studded leather. Poetic ruffled blouses and embroidered collars in velvet and tulle added to sheer long skirts, bias-cut chiffon dresses and velvet frocks that amplified the romanticism of the lineup, but were grounded in Converse-like sneakers and stompy boots.
Prints on T-shirts paid tribute to Rimbaud, but he wasn’t the only hero of the show. Model-du-jour Billy Idol took the runway in a fringed leather cape, leading a pack that also included Wet Leg’s Rhian Teasdale, musicians Fletcher Milloy and Rip Swirl and everybody’s new favorite nepo baby, Scarlett White.
They strutted in front of guests ranging from Led Zeppelin’s Jimmy Page to Lourdes Leon and Gabbriette, and followed a live performance by Beguiling Junior, the new music duo of Oli Burslem and Okay Kaya, who also created the original soundtrack of the show.
