Recently, a perfumer told me to never write off a fragrance note completely. As she stated, not only have people typically never tried the raw version of the scent they claim to hate, but they are also likely unaware that the same note can be interpreted differently depending on the nose behind a fragrance. So goes my journey with sandalwood perfumes.
It’s a note that can take a very discerning nose to appreciate, but trust me, when you get it, you get it. “Sandalwood adds warmth, creaminess, and depth to a fragrance,” Clement Gavarry, principal perfumer at DSM-Firmenich, tells me. “It’s a beautiful base note that anchors a fragrance and gives it a smooth, long-lasting finish.”
I recently had the opportunity to take a fragrance class, and of all the raw materials I smelled, I have to say that sandalwood is the note that I fell in love with the most. After having what I would call a rather contentious relationship with the note, I feel like I can finally appreciate it for all its creamy, woody, and cocooning glory. While sandalwood is typically used as a base note in most formulas (it’s well-known for pairing well with a large variety of other scents), there are some formulations on the market that are either created entirely around the note or that have a stunning interpretation of the ingredient that simply feels like a mastery of perfumery that few have achieved.
Of course, I’ve been having the best time spritzing, sniffing, and playing with all the sandalwood perfumes that I can get my hands on, so I’ve gone ahead and created a list of the brands that I’m convinced will turn any skeptic into a believer. Plus, additional commentary from Gavarry about how to best incorporate the note into your existing fragrance collection and scent routines.
Matiere Premiere
Santal Austral Extrait De Parfum
Matiere Premiere has become one of my favorite fragrance houses. The brand typically releases scents that are an amplification of a particular note, and as you can guess, Santal Astral Extrait is all about sandalwood to the maximum. This is an extrait flanker of the original iteration from the brand launched, so expect beastmode longevity and seven or more hours of wear.
Fragrance Family: Woods
Key Notes: Iris; Almond Milk; Cardamom; Tonka
Size: 1.7 fl oz
What I Love: Made to enhance the sandalwood note; Unexpectedly sweet; Lasts for hours
What I Don’t: Some may find it a bit too loud
Review for MC: “Matiere Premiere continues to impress me, and Santal Astral extrait is the latest fragrance that has had me up in arms. The most delicious, creamy, sandalwood note is scaffolded by iris, almond milk, and even black cardamom absolute, a guest ingredient exclusively in the extrait version of the perfume that was also developed exclusively for the brand. The result is sweet, a little milky, and even bordering on spicy. If you want a beastmode sandalwood perfume that is bold yet inviting, but will also last on the skin (and even more so on your clothes, pick up a bottle of Santal Astral Extrait.” — Ariel Baker, Beauty Writer
Ariel Baker testing Matiere Premiere Santal Astral perfume.
(Image credit: Ariel Baker)
Diptyque
Tam Dao Eau De Parfum
I will admit that it took me a while to see the beauty of Diptyque’s Tam Dao, but once I did, there was no stopping my love for this masterpiece. A combination of spicy and woody notes, which the brand says is a reinterpretation of memories from the holy forests of Vietnam, this scent is contemplative yet bold, and unforgettable in its mastery of what could otherwise be considered rather run-of-the-mill wood notes.
Fragrance Family: Woods
Key Notes: Cypress; Myrtle; Sandalwood; Coriander
Size: 1.7 fl oz
What I Love: Captures the more creamy facets of the sandalwood note beautifully
What I Don’t: Some may find it too masculine-leaning.
Review for MC: “Tam Dao was not my favorite fragrance when I first started getting into Diptyque. However, once I smelled sandalwood in its raw form and promptly fell in love with it, it’s like this perfume transformed right under my nose. It’s woody, lactonic, and, to my ears, harmonious, given how well the rest of the notes blend with the hero ingredient. If you’re just starting to get into niche fragrances and are craving a sandalwood perfume to add to your collection, Tam Dao will make a fantastic addition to your perfume wardrobe.” — Ariel Baker, Beauty Writer
Ariel Baker testing Diptyque Tam Dao perfume.
(Image credit: Ariel Baker)
Tom Ford
Santal Blush Eau De Parfum
Santal Blush, you will always be famous. Not only does this perfume smell like a spicy, woody dream thanks to a combination of cinnamon, florals, and, of course, sandalwood, but it is also beloved by one of the biggest pop stars in the world, Taylor Swift. Famous stamp of approval aside, I do truly believe this is one of Tom Ford’s best fragrances. Even though a more woody note is the star of the show, it’s unmistakably feminine—perfect for people who like a sweeter interpretation of a sandalwood perfume.
Fragrance Family: Woody Floral
Key Notes: Cinnamon bark; Ylang-Ylang; Australian Sandalwood
Size: 1.7 fl oz
What I Love: Much more feminine-leaning than other scents on this list; Celebrity-approved
What I Don’t: You’ll likely run into people wearing this exact perfume, so if you want a niche fragrance moment, this isn’t it
Review for MC: “I don’t have much in common with Taylor Swift, but a love of Tom Ford’s Santal Blush is the thread that unites us. It’s a love affair that I truly didn’t expect—cinnamon and ylang ylang aren’t notes that I’m typically drawn to, but somehow, the brand has made this concoction work exceptionally well. With Swift’s stamp of approval, you can’t exactly expect this perfume to have that ‘if you know, you know’ quality that I love about more niche fragrances, but it smells so good, I have to say that I really don’t care.” — Ariel Baker, Beauty Writer
Ariel Baker testing Tom Ford Santal Blush perfume.
(Image credit: Ariel Baker)
Guerlain
Absolus Allegoria Santal Royal Eau De Parfum
Even though it has some serious heavy hitters in its portfolio, as a fragrance brand, I don’t think Guerlain gets the hype that it deserves. I’m here to wax poetic about yet another incredible perfume that the brand boasts: Santal Royal. It’s a little more on the floral side of the spectrum, but the oud note adds depth to the formula, complementing the sandalwood beautifully. The result is a seductive, forward fragrance that feels a little sensual—the perfect date-night scent, if you ask me.
Fragrance Family: Floral
Key Notes: Jasmine; Rose; Leather; Oud Accord
Size: 4.2 fl. oz
What I Love: Beastmode fragrance; More floral forward than others on this list
What I Don’t: Some may find the leather note to be a little too strong
Review for MC: “Santal Royal feels like a hidden gem in the entire collection of Guerlain fragrances, but I’m here to let the secret out. This is a stunning oud-and-leather-forward scent that subtly, but elegantly, mixes in the sandalwood note, perfect for people who are still getting familiar with the ingredient. On top of all this, the buttle is insanely stunning, perfect for gifting or keeping front and center on your vanity.” — Ariel Baker, Beauty Writer
Ariel Baker testing Guerlain Santal Royal perfume.
(Image credit: Ariel Baker)
Maison d’Etto
Durban Jane Eau De Parfum
Not only is there sandalwood in this fragrance, but there is also orris and labdanum. In short, a few sprays of Maison d’Etto’s Durban Jane will have you smelling oh-so expensive. The niche fragrance opens up with pink pepper and ambrette notes, before the orris note truly takes center stage. It rounds out with cedarwood and sandalwood, adding the most delicious, creamy punctuation to one of the most beautiful fragrance journeys I have been on in a very long time.
Fragrance Family: Woody floral
Key Notes: Pink pepper; Orris; Sandalwood
Size: 2 fl. oz
What I Love: Well-balanced fragrance where no note outshines the others; Niche brand
What I Don’t: Hard to find in person, so may have to blind buy
Review for MC: “Not only does this perfume have a stunning sandalwood note, but it may have also single-handedly made me finally fall in love with Orris. Back to the woody note at hand—this is one of the most gorgeously blended perfumes I have ever had the pleasure of getting my nose on. It’s somehow cocooning while simultaneously reminding me of what it feels like to take a full, diaphragm-deep breath of fresh air in an open countryside. If I could describe freedom as a fragrance, it would 100 percent be Durban Jane.” — Ariel Baker, Beauty Writer
Ariel Baker testing Maison d’Etto Durban Jane perfume.
(Image credit: Ariel Baker)
Clive Christian
The Crown Collection 3-Piece Eau De Parfum Traveller Set
Clive Christian’s Crown Collection has slowly been shaping up to be my favorite from the brand, and Crab Apple Blossom, in particular, is the fruity sandalwood fragrance of my dreams. An amalgamation of aquatic, citrus, and, of course, woody notes, trying to pick a favorite from this trio is like trying to get me to choose between my children. Still, for the sake of this sandalwood story, I will say that Crab Apple Blossom has to be the one that takes the cake. It’s often sold out, but this trio is a fantastic way to try not only the sandalwood-infused offering but also the other two masterpieces that make up this collection.
Fragrance Family: Aquatic Citrus
Key Notes: Apple blossom; Water lily; Sandalwood; Musk
Size: 10 ml
What I Love: Stunning citrus-forward perfume; Perfect for year-round wear
What I Don’t: This scent is extremely popular and often sells out. If you have to blind buy it, do it
Customer Review: “I absolutely love Clive Christian. I’ve always steered toward the addictive arts series, but ventured into Crab Apple for the holidays. I am so thrilled that I did. I would give it 10 out of five stars if I could.” — Maxaroma
MCM
Eau De Parfum
If you’re a fan of raspberry in perfumes, MCM has a winner for you. Simply called Eau de Parfum, fruity raspberry and apricot notes open the fragrance before a heart of florals takes over. A delicious blend of white moss, vanilla, ambrox, and sandalwood completes the formula for a unisex sandalwood fragrance that is nothing short of a crowd-pleaser. Expect compliments galore.
Fragrance Family: Woody floral
Key Notes: Raspberry; Ambrox; Sandalwood
Size: 1.7 fl. oz
What I Love: Crowd-pleaser scent that can be worn every day; On the more affordable side, especially for a designer perfume
What I Don’t: Packaging may be a little finicky
Customer Review: “This fragrance is in the cutest bottle, and that is what caught my eye, but when I experienced the fragrance, I was more amazed! It is such a beautiful scent, and the bottle is so solid. This is my new favorite fragrance! I cannot wait to see where the brand goes!” — Nordstrom
Contents
What Does Sandalwood Perfume Smell Like?
The smell of sandalwood will vary in perfume depending on everything from the perfumer’s interpretation of the note, how old the formula is, and more. However, the raw ingredient has a very distinct smell. “Sandalwood has a smooth, milky creaminess,” Gavarry says. “It’s warm, soft, and very comforting on the skin.”
What stands out most to me with the note is that milky, almost fatty facet. I can’t say how long I have been on the hunt for my perfect lactonic fragrance, and unexpectedly, it seems I should have been prioritizing sandalwood fragrances all along. A well-done fragrance that features the note will allow you to smell the entirety of the sandalwood’s facets, and the experience takes me by surprise every time.
What Other Notes Pair Well With Sandalwood?
As previously mentioned, sandalwood is definitely one of the workhorse scents of the fragrance world. It can blend with virtually any other note on the market. “You can often find it paired with florals, spices, amber, vanilla, and even fresh citrus notes,” Gavarry says. “The latter notes in particular do a fantastic job at balancing its richness.”
If you’re just getting into sandalwoods, I suggest playing it safe with notes that you may already like or are a bit more palatable. Think: Vanilla, musks, or even rose. Once you start to appreciate the note a bit more, consider formulations with orris, oud, and even ambergris. The combinations, especially if you enjoy layering your perfumes as I do, are truly endless.
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Meet the Expert
Clement Gavarry is a Principal Perfumer at dsm-firmenich.
